Japan Summer Programme Blog
The Japan Society for the Promotion of Science (JSPS) provides opportunities
for young pre and postdoctoral researchers from North America and Europe to
receive an orientation on Japanese culture, research systems and to pursue
research under the guidance of host researchers at Japanese universities over a
11 week period during the summer. The programme includes return flights, a generous
sum to cover living costs and a domestic travel bursary.
Having made contact and discussed my research with Professor Jin Mitsugi
at Keio University, associate director of the renowned Auto-ID Lab’s Japan
base, I was tremendously excited after my request to visit the Lab and conduct
some research under his guidance was accepted. That was only the beginning as a
long application process to JSPS and the British Council was still ahead.
Although 100 places are allocated to American PhD students, only 10 are
allocated to the UK. I knew the application process would be difficult so I
asked for help from as many people I had access to. I must give special thanks
to my supervisors in England, Dr Knight and Dr Lim for reviewing many(!)
versions of my research proposal, the careers advisors at Aston for helping me
with my CV and written application, Paul Knobbs, Aston's post grad international
placement advisor who came in with some very useful advice on the tone of the
application and finally my little sister, Subs for teaching me the fundamentals
of Japanese humility, in the light of two brave years as an English teacher in
rural Japan. Many thanks to my friends and family also who encouraged and
believed in me, I don’t possess the vocabulary that can express how much I rely on all
of your support in situations where I am completely in over my head!
Right, enough of the Stilton, onwards to weird and wondrous experiences!
The first week was a relatively painless introduction to Japan; an opportunity
to get rid of the jet lag, be eaten alive by mosquitos, meet the JSPS fellows
from other countries, learn some basic phrases, enjoy amazing food and embark
on a few Japanese cultural experiences.
As we all came from various places in the world, we spent the first
night in Japan in a hotel near Narita airport. It was comfortable enough, beginning with a very friendly greeting from the JSPS staff. I recognised some of my fellow
British researchers and we settled down to dinner in the uneasy tiredness after a long journey, a new environment and dire chopstick skills. After dinner we
mingled a little and I got talking to a civil engineer from California Tech,
Trevor, about the healthcare situation in America. He seemed a little more
worldly than some of the other Americans and we discussed, at length, our respective
countries differences in various aspects, tales of travels, sporting interests
(he was amazed at how hard the cricked ball I had bought for my host was), made
fun of ourselves and each other long into the night. As I have never been to
America and met very few Americans, it was interesting to get an insight form
the horse’s mouth, so to speak. A good chap with good banter to boot.
The next morning we moved on to our home for the next week, Sokendai
University for Graduate Studies. I had struck up an understanding with Ben, a
researcher from the Open University. As conducting a PhD is a solitary
experience even with the most supportive of supervisors, enrolling on a PhD at
the Open University is something not to be sniffed at and speaks volumes for
Ben’s self motivation, confidence and above all, talent. The concept of the
Open University was lost on many of our friends from over the pond, however, we
in England know how highly regarded degrees from the OU are and his research
and working methods are an often touched upon topic at dinnertimes. I was delighted
to know I would be rooming with Ben for the week as he was a keen sportsman,
cycling over 10 miles per day and we made a pretty good team when it was time
to be witty with the American contingent. The English accent was straight away
over exaggerated, for the purposes of jest, by myself and Ben soon found the
stiff upper lip to be a useful weapon on the field of banter. Hugh Grant and Jude
Law, perhaps, have never had as much fun as we did this week.
Some key personalities for you to meet and for me not to forget:
Eli: Canadian, skier, drinker, student of British banter and a fun guy
to be around. He is Canadian after all, eh. Eli spent a season in Hakuba
teaching skiing and living with brits, his banter is definatly getting there and
as he is Canadian, eh, he is humble, fun, loveable and worldly.
Tobias: German, proud, lets the pigs out a lot, clean energy engineer.
Tobias is one of those lucky people who not only is abundantly talented but has
found a use for his ability. His research on efficient use of clean energy is
infinitely interesting and was one of the most discussed posters at the
presentation evening. Go Tobias! We talked about football incessantly too, of
course.
Rebbekah: English, UCL medic turned researcher, elegant, banterous, princess.
Bex is charming and great fun to be around, speaks many languages, really opens
up in conversation and wears pretty frocks. A good find.
Christiana: American, honorary Brit due to her reserved polite demeanor,
Texas U student, cunning linguist. Christiana stood out from most of the
American contingent as she wasn’t clamoring for attention. Ben and I took a
like to her instantly as she always spoke in considered calmness, had
endearingly dry wit and had us in stiches thanks her willingness to laugh at herself.
A complete gem.
Lauren: American, pessimist, the personification of critical thinking.
My encounter with Lauren was brief but her honesty and ability to see right
through a situation was refreshing and a welcome change to being overrun by
Team USA. Our conversation on the healthcare
system in America, taken from the view of the normal, hard working citizen was critical
but balanced. Thanks for telling it how it is Lauren.
More key players to be introduced over the coming weeks.
So now you know some of the key players lets move onto the game itself.
The general schedule for each day went like this: rice, lecture from eminent scientists, rice, language lessons, more rice,
cultural experiences and then banterous chat in the lounge until bedtime.
Breakfast: All you can eat mix of cosmopolitan and Japanese dishes.
Fish, cold meats, miso soup, rice, cereal, coffee and excitement for the day
ahead.
Eminent Scientist Lectures: Particle Physics, History of the Japanese
Language, Collaboration and History of the Koto.
Language Lessons: I was placed in the complete beginner class and was
glad for it. Although I had been to Japan before, the basic phrases I knew
could be counted on one of Link’s (legend of Zelda) hands. The pace of the
lessons was electric and the teachers, although supportive, knew they had to
get through a lot of material. It had been some time since formal language
learning for me and I definitely felt the pace. Ben and I practiced together at
every opportunity, combined with our willingness to try and our determination
throughout the few days allowed us to just about get through.
Cultural experiences: This was my favorite part. Although the
calligraphy, tea ceremony and origami were all enjoyed, the Koto, Shimasen and
Flute performances were the pick of the bunch for me. The performance of the
Koto, in particular, was mesmerising. You could tell, although these
performances only lasted a few minutes each, they involved a lifetime of skill
development, diligent understanding of the history and reason for the
instrument, absolute attention to the very smallest of detail in every note
and personal interpretation in artistic expression that can only be delivered
after hard earned, obvious mastery. There was a standing ovation for the
performers at the end and rightly so.
The Home Visit. As part of the orientation week, we all had the
opportunity to live with a Japanese Family for the weekend. I was looking
forward to using some of my Japanese and seeing normal, everyday, Japanese
family life. I had been in touch with Keiko, the mother of the family before
hand so I was not so reluctant as some of my fellows. Her English was great so
it made for an easy initial greeting at Sokendai. She picked me up with her
children; Mina, Akio and Shun. The first night I was told that we were going to
a party with some other families. I was open to the idea but weary that my
Japanese was running out by the second. When we got to the party, I took my
shoes off at the door, walked into the house and was greeted by about 30
friendly faces ranging from old to rug rat staring at me. I smiled and gave a
tentative “Kon Ban Wa” as everyone exploded in a better pronouced greeting
with broad smiles. Stay calm Mo, the worst is over, right? After being asked to
take a seat at the table, Naohiro introduced himself in an American accent and
informed me that he had spent the last 4 years in an American High School. He
explained some of the customs and made me feel at ease. I was very grateful of
his presence and patience. Then, the man of the house came in from work and
everyone went silent. He looked at me and I got up to try to introduce myself.
At that moment, when I opened my mouth to speak, the cat had most definitely
got the foreigner’s tongue. As most of you know, it is rare that I am
speechless but the man could see that I was completely stumped. He very
graciously started speaking in English and introduced himself, after letting me
feel the pain of everyone’s attention for a second but what felt like an hour
of torture, in relative terms. As soon as he finished his introduction, I found
my voice and gave mine in Japanese. All was well. I was in my suit and sweating
already in the hot, crowded front room before the man of the house came in. I
was uncontrollably dripping now that my heart was in my mouth. The cat might as
well have pulled that out too, such was the embarrassment.
As the evening continued, I noticed everyone and I assert, everyone, could
speak excellent English. I enquired, as inoffensively as possible, to how this
was so and it came to light the party was thrown by members of the Hippo Family
Club (HFC). HFC is an organisation that arranges for its members to go on home
placements around the world, with the purpose of language learning and cultural
understanding. I was intrigued and amazed at the amount of different languages
that were being spoken in the room after bringing up the topic. There were
descriptions of love in French, engineering in German, dancing in Spanish, even
cricket in Punjabi. The party was a welcome back shindig for a student at the
university I would be attending who had just finished her placement in America.
She spoke French, German, Spanish, Arabic, Korean, Mandarin and English, evidently
with consumate ease. That night I became certain of something that has been
lingering on my mind for some time. We live in an increasingly global society
and a strong grasp of languages is no longer an impressive addition to a CV but
a very basic fundamental requirement, much like GCSE’s. I couldn’t help but
feel uncultured, uneducated and somewhat inferior as I sat there sweating like
an ape. Something to sort out, very quickly too I should think; languages that
is, I can’t do too much about the sweating.
The rest of the weekend was a mellower affair and Mina, the youngest of
the family didn’t let go of my hand almost all weekend. She was so cute it was unbearable. Having
cousins this age it was easy to entertain and occupy her. I think we are BFF
(best friends forever) now. Result. We did some sight seeing, enjoyed amazing
home cooked food and I even got a chance to go with the boys to their Chanbara
Class. The samurai sword play sport is very popular with the Japanese and
especially for children as it is an entry point for the more aggressive,
dangerous and ritualised Kendo. Nevertheless, the class included the young,
those in their prime and the old and I was very excited for the chance to
participate. I was treated very well and welcomed by one and all. There was a chap
about my age who was an assistant instructor there and he could see that I was
trying to imitate his moves in the small breaks between sessions. He cottoned
on and took the time to help me further. I felt like I was being taught by a real Samurai! He
was so fast, fluid and powerful and in the later individual duels he pretty
much destroyed everyone each in one, lighting fast, deadly accurate blow. His
opponents could do nothing but bow and move aside for the next person after being dispatched so
easily. I was placed in the beginner group. Being shredded to bits by an 8
year old is a humbling, emasculating but fun experience. The Chanbara
swords are basically long beanbags with an air pocket in the middle that is
filled with a bicycle pump before a class. They don’t hurt physically but being
hit three times in the face before you even know it, by an 8 year old, hurts in
other ways. There was one bout where the instructor explained, in her words,
where I would have been cut if a real blade was being used; my right eye would
have been sliced in half, my throat would be slit from ear to ear, my
intestines would be behaving more like a red waterfall and my left achilles
tendon would be flapping about in the wind coming from my posterior. I thought
I had been hit only once. All by a lad 3 times younger than me. I was in awe of
the skill, speed and intensity of the keen practitioners of this much loved,
very japanese sport. As I didn’t have any shorts, it is lucky that I didn’t
shit my self as I ripped my jeans at the crotch down to the knee. Of course,
they didn’t laugh at me in my presence but my perception informed me that they
were splitting inside. So was I to be fair.
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With the kids watching the highlights of England Vs Sweden |
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I had the choice of a conventional umbrella but I went for a decorative one |
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Big Budda at Kamakura; Samurai Town |
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Chanbara class pre destruction of jeans |
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This kid slashed me to pieces, I didn't even get close |
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Try all I want, I will never look as cool as the japanese do. |
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I had grown something resembling small girl on my hand for a weekend. |
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Fried and flattened octopus. Guts and all. Delicious |
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Easing my tension and embarrassment at the Hippo club party. |
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The view from our Sokendai base. |
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Eli, Canadian hero and I in front of my poster! |
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Mina being cute as always |
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Anime at the bowling alley when you get a strike, of course |
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Automatic shoe dispensers, obviously. |
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Tempura. Oh yes. Itatakimas. |
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inside Budda |
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Assistant Instructor at Chanbara class after he beat the crap out of me and everyone else |
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Yum |
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Yum mark 2.0 |
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Arty Farty except for the people in the pic. |
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View from Enoshima |
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We can hope |
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What an epic instrument |
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Masters, and still yet so young |
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Some of my fellow JSPSers |
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Cheeso! |
Stay tuned for anecdotes on the final few days of orientation, more players in the
game and moving to my host institution. Until then. Jaa Mata (See you soon).